Collecting Victorian Jewellery - A Sentimental Journey to Yesteryear.

For anyone with a passion for history and its memories, choosing a pastime that involves antiques can be very rewarding. Everything from days gone by seems to have become collectable and, depending on the era, quality and item, has since grown in value and continues to do so, in some cases exponentially. The difficulty comes in trying to decide what aspect of antiques to collect as there is such a wide array to choose from: different eras, different themes, different countries, the list is endless. So why not take heed of a lady who had exceptional taste, great dignity, a huge capacity for love and who, for nearly 64 years, ruled an Empire?

Queen Victoria had a penchant for ornate, shiny and intricate things and so, very quickly, became a trend setter for the ladies of the era. Victoria ruled at a time of great industrial revolution and the technology available to make jewellery became much more advanced. The increase in trade routes around the world meant that stones from all corners of the earth could be incorporated into this opulent jewellery. The cutting and polishing of stones was vastly improved which meant that less valuable stones could be used to make an item of jewellery still look as expensive as its more genuine counterpart, but that it was actually more affordable to the middle classes. Another technique that meant that Victorian jewellery could be more affordable was the use of Pinchbeck, developed by Christopher Pinchbeck, which is an alloy of copper and zinc that closely resembles gold. This allowed for jewellery to look no different than its 9 or 18carat gold counterparts while still being available to a greater portion of the population. 

During their marriage Queen Victoria received many items of jewellery from her husband, Prince Albert, that were intricately assembled into motifs, such as a heart pierced by an arrow, made of many small coloured stones. This started a trend which became known as sentimental jewellery. On the untimely death of her beloved husband, Victoria donned black and offset her outfits with ornate pieces of gold jewellery with black enamel set with diamonds, pastes and pearls. This was known as mourning jewellery. Other mourning jewellery contains locks of hair from the deceased, and emblems of forget-me-nots, hearts and ivy leaves. These pieces often have the name of the deceased engraved on them. 

So, where to start? Jolyon Langerman of Estimé in Cape Town is an avid collector, and has a wealth of knowledge gained through years of collecting and restoring antique jewellery. He advises to choose something that appeals to you. “If you are a sentimentalist a heart, why not focus on the love jewellery. Find something that you are passionate about and do as much background reading on it as you can, talk to your local antique dealers; handle the pieces, feel them, ask for advice. Arm yourself with knowledge in your chosen field and then get searching”

This is where this hobby becomes really exciting as the collector has to keep their eyes peeled for the top end pieces in the hope of garnering a ‘find’. “You will always find good pieces in antique shops, especially the ones specialising in jewellery,” advises Jolyon, “and also head for the auctions. Bidding on an auction is very exhilarating and, as long as you know what you are willing to pay for an item, you can be guided on true value by other collectors against whom you are bidding. Auction houses have experts who assess the jewellery for authenticity before it goes out on auction so you can be fairly sure that you are bidding on the genuine article.”

There is something subtly romantic in spending time with your partner, trawling through antique shops and visiting antique fairs in search of your next great find. And who better to share the excitement of bidding for your chosen piece at an auction with, or calling on to assess the elaborate stone encrusted brooch you have come across? Dean Hendry owner of Heirlooms antique shop in Hillcrest says the workmanship can take your breath away: “The passion that develops for collecting these pieces is enhanced by the intricate and superior workmanship of the jewellery as well as the rarity of pieces that are absolutely perfect. Collecting Victorian jewellery is a hobby that you can take with you wherever you go, as there are antique shops in even the smallest villages in many countries around the world. There is also appeal in its affordability; there are some fantastic pieces to be found at very affordable prices.”

Embarking on a hobby such as antique collecting opens up an amazing world of knowledge about the past, gives the hobbyist an exciting and anticipatory focus for their weekend escapades, and it combines a venture into the mystery of yesteryear with a commercially beneficial hobby.

“One of the great benefits of this pastime is the fact that Victorian jewellery has increased in value steadily over the decades,” says Jolyon Langerman, “with the top end pieces holding their own even against the hugely sort after Art Nouveau and Art Deco jewellery. The idea is to choose something that you are passionate about and invest in pieces showing detailed and high quality workmanship.” Insofar as price is concerned, Dean Hendry advises speaking to people locally rather than looking through price guides: “There are various international books that come out covering all Antiques and Collectables with numerous pages covering jewellery, but these contain international prices. Collectors starting out should visit Antique Fairs and shops regularly to acquaint themselves with local prices. You will soon get an idea of what is a fair price.”

To find out more about this rewarding and intriguing pastime there are a number of books filled with knowledge and advice to get you started. Thames and Hudson’s ‘Illustrated Dictionary of Jewellery’ is a good place to start. It is fully illustrated and contains a wealth of indispensable knowledge. Another highly informative book is Judith Miller’s ‘Costume Jewellery’ which is filled with excellent photographic detail to help with identification.

Due to its personal touch, Victorian jewellery has a very special sentiment attached to it and would be a fascinating choice for any hobbyist antique collector.